Fly to Tirana, Albania for

A colourful gem of a city

After World War II, Albania fell under a particularly strict form of Communism, which cut off the country from the rest of the world for more than four decades. The wounds are still healing, but Tirana today is unrecognisable from even 10 years ago. For one, the Albanian capital, once dominated by grey concrete buildings, has well and truly shaken off its image as a drab urban sprawl. In the most literal sense: the city’s large housing estates are now painted in bold colours and its electrical boxes are decorated with street art, as if to welcome a brighter future. Take a walk along the Lana river to see some of the most striking examples.

Skanderbeg Square, bunkers and a pyramid

Pedestrianised Skanderbeg Square is the city’s throbbing heart, centred around the horseback statue of its namesake, who led a successful rebellion against the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century. The vast plaza is also home to the National History Museum, adorned with a huge love-it-or-hate-it Socialist Realist mural above the entrance. The permanent exhibition walks you through the country’s turbulent history from the days of ancient Illyria right up to the present, and showcases a replica of Skanderbeg's legendary sword. On the other end of the square stands the 18th-century Et’hem Bey Mosque, one of the nation’s most revered buildings, as well as the 35-metre-tall Clock Tower, offering great views. Mementos of Albania’s Communist past still pepper the cityscape. Close to the main square, you’ll find Tirana’s pyramid, which was opened in 1988 as a museum celebrating the life of long-time dictator Enver Hoxha. The enormous Brutalist, graffiti-covered building, which stood empty for years, sits empty these days, while its fate is decided is set to get a new lease of life as a modern cultural hub. But nothing symbolises the paranoid-isolationist Hoxha regime better than the over 700,000 concrete bunkers constructed all over the country between the 1960s and ‘80s. Take a bus to the outskirts of Tirana to see the largest of them all, Bunk’Art. Originally built as a bomb-proof shelter for Albania’s political and military elite, the 3000-square-metre underground labyrinth has been converted into a fascinating history museum and art gallery. Its little sibling, Bunk’Art 2, is located below the Ministry of Internal Affairs, and features haunting stories of political persecution and oppression.

A medley of flavours and influences

Albanian cuisine blends Slavic, Mediterranean and Turkish influences, with roasted lamb, qebab (kebabs) and qofte (grilled or fried meatballs), fish and stuffed veggies dominating menus. One of the best places to try traditional dishes is Oda, a charming little restaurant with low tables, wooden benches and handmade carpets. Don’t leave without sampling the local speciality known as fergesë e Tiranës, a casserole dish made of eggs, cheese, peppers, tomatoes and onions. How about a meat feast? Zgara Korçare 2 specialises in grilled dishes, including the famous meatballs of the Korça region. Wash your meal down with a pint of dunkel- or pilsner-style Korça beer. You’ll find the highest concentration of eateries in Blloku, or The Block, once off-limits to everyone but the Communist party’s highest-ranking members. The small area of about a dozen streets has become the city’s liveliest spot, with trendy restaurants, bars and cafés wherever you look. Restaurant Piceri Era is a firm favourite among locals, offering traditional Albanian fare and some of the best pizza in town. Or check out Juvenilja for local dishes and fresh seafood. Looking for a special treat? Book a table at Uka Farm, a family-run farm and vineyard just outside the city, serving up locally sourced cheese and meat alongside organic vegetables in a pastoral setting. Speaking of dinner with a view: take the Dajti Ekspres cable car to the popular Ballkoni Dajtit restaurant, and sample Albanian and Italian fare with the entire city and, weather permitting, the Adriatic coast spreading out before you.

Shopping and bar-hopping

There’s no lack of modern shopping centres in Tirana, covering all your shopping needs from international high-street brands to luxury labels. Toptani, opened in 2017, is worth visiting for its impressive architecture alone. Souvenir hunting? Myslym Shyri and Çam streets are probably your best bet for handmade goodies, including traditional jewellery, folk costumes, carpets and homeware. If you like a little people-watching with your shopping, visit the recently revamped New Bazaar. Peruse the stalls piled with fresh fruit and veg, meat and seafood, and linger a bit to soak up the atmosphere. In recent years, Blloku has cemented itself as the epicentre for Tirana’s vibrant nightlife, drawing a hip crowd every night of the week. Start your bar crawl at Lincoln Garden Café, in the leafy garden of Hoxha’s former residence. Continue at Radio Bar, named for its collection of old Albanian radios, and loved for its vintage decor and pleasant inner terrace. Or try Illyrian Saloon, inspired by ancient Illyrian culture, making a name for itself with great beer and great music, including live gigs and DJ sets. Then descend into Bunker 1944, a basement bar with Communist-era furniture and loads of character. In the mood for a cocktail? Colonial Cocktail Academy or Nouvelle Vague serve up some of the most creative drinks in town.

Mountains, beaches and a thousand windows

Be sure to go for a stroll in the Grand Park of Tirana, a green oasis with a large lake, wooded trails and laid-back café-bars. Heading to Bunk’Art? Combine your outing with a visit to Mount Dajti National Park, overlooking the city. Take the Dajti Ekspres cable car to the top for fresh air, wonderful views and countryside walks. You can also go mountain biking, paragliding or rock climbing, or visit the Adventure Park with a rope course to get the adrenaline pumping. Want to hit the beach? Durrës is the most easily accessible seaside resort from the Albanian capital, only 30 kilometres away, with buses running all day. The historic port city boasts 10 kilometres of beach, a Roman amphitheatre and an excellent archaeological museum. Interested in the country’s Ottoman past? Take a day trip to Berat, known for its huddles of white Ottoman houses, whose dark windows resemble watchful eyes. Nicknamed the 'city of a thousand windows', the town, built into the hillside, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Climb up to the beautifully restored 14th-century hilltop fortress for the best views of this enchanting place and the surrounding mountains.

Tirana weather

One of the sunniest cities in Europe, Tirana enjoys more than 2,500 hours of sunshine a year. It has a benign, subtropical climate, with hot, mostly dry summers, temperate spring and autumn months, and mild, quite wet winters. July and August often see temperatures rising well into the 30s.The best time to visit is between April and October.

Tirana airport

Tirana International Airport Nënë Tereza is Albania’s main international airport, located about 15 kilometres from the city centre. It’s a compact, single-terminal airport which has all the amenities you’d expect. To reach downtown Tirana, take the hourly shuttle bus (journey time around 40 minutes), hire a car or jump in a taxi. There are also regular buses to Fier, Vlorë and Durrës.